In 1973, with Bob and Dura living in Tehran, Iran, they convinced DeVonne and me to take a European trip and meet them in Frankfurt, Germany, where we could travel together for a few weeks. We arranged for a United European American Club (U.E.A.C.) charter flight with Overseas National Airways. The total cost of the roundtrip flight was only $273.00 plus $4.60 each — and I don't think you can come close to those prices anymore. Dicky & Judie drove us to the airport in their new car, a 1973 Ford Gran Torino. At the time, Dicky was working for Unifax Systems, Inc. – Data Processing. We left LAX on 24 May 1973 at 11:00 PM on Flight L542 from the West Imperial Terminal in a DC-8 and flew direct to Bangor, Maine. The flight took 5 hours and 11 minutes and we arrived at 7:25 AM Bangor time. At Bangor we had a one hour layover for refueling that allowed us to get off the plane and stretch our legs before the final non-stop flight to Frankfurt. We were flying against the sun so we didn't arrive in Frankfurt until the early evening of the following day. The actual flight time was about 15 hours. On such a charter flight, however, we found that the seats are jammed in as close as possible to carry as many people as they can. There were about 250 passengers on the plane. That made for much discomfort and by the time we made Frankfurt our legs were nearly disabled. We both got up and took a short walk in the plane one time that may have saved our legs from severe damage. We did have Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner served to us in flight. Food on the plane was good and they were constantly either feeding us or having a cocktail hour. We managed on 7-UP and Gingerale. In daylight hours there was little to see, though our seats were behind the wing. All we could look directly down on were clouds or overcast (maybe it's called undercast). We flew at 33,000 feet over Nova Scotia, the Atlantic and the Southern British Isles. At times we could see the ocean and caught a glimpse of the White Cliffs of Dover as we crossed the English Channel to Belgium. Flying was great with little turbulence and landings near perfect with excellent pilots. We arrived at Frankfurt about 8:15 PM their time and took an airport bus that carried us about a mile from the plane to the terminal, through a maize of traffic lanes, underground and finally to our baggage station. As we walked through the airport and followed the crowd, not knowing exactly where we were to go, we spotted Bob behind a glass enclosure near the baggage drop off. I asked him to get a baggage cart while we waited sitting on our luggage. DeVonne and I carried our four bags through the barrier and we greeted Bob and Dura. We had arranged through U.E.A.C. for a car rental from Foremost Euro-Car in Van Nuys for our stay in Europe. Bob had already spotted the rental car man so we followed him to our car. We had an Opel Kadett that surprisingly gave us plenty of room for the four of us and all our luggage. We put about 3000 miles on the Opel before we turned it back in at the Frankfurt airport nearly four weeks later. Cost for the rental was $409.00 plus $46.09 tax, with unlimited mileage. For a full tank of gas they also charged us another $10.00. We drove directly to the Steigenberger Airport Hotel that was only a few blocks from the airport. Bob had already made our room reservations. DeVonne and I were in Room 833 at $40.00 per night, or 116 Deutsche Marks. It was an excellent room and we had the same one four weeks later the night before our return flight home to the states. There were peculiarities however. The bathtub was on legs and set about 2 inches off the floor with a fine opening for cockroaches or anything else to congregate in or make their home. The toilet was about 2 inches higher than our standard height in Los Angeles that becomes noticeable when you use it. We had twin beds with bed clothes consisting of a blanket inside a full sheet that covered you well enough but not enough to tuck in as I am used to. We went to bed about 11:00 PM Frankfurt time and I slept until about 3:30 AM. The time change would not let me sleep any longer. I crawled in the other bed with DeVonne and tried sleeping with her for another hour but I got no more sleep and probably just disturbed her. So I got up at 4:15 AM and took a hot tub bath with Meeresalgen Schaumbel - Sea Algae foam bath that was very relaxing. Soaked for a half hour and got out. The bath towel size was tremendous - about 5 feet 6 inches long by 4 feet wide. I shaved and was outside for a walk a little after 5:00 AM. I walked around the hotel and then off into a nearby forest. Within a half block of the hotel I spotted a huge jack rabbit about the same time he saw me and he took off. The forest had decomposed granite lanes for bicycling and walking. The air was crisp and clean and with the birds singing and walking through the forest before sunrise was exhilarating. You get a feeling of how great it is to be alive and how beautiful and wonderful the handiwork of God is, anywhere on the face of the earth. I whistled and listened to the birds call back to me. Crossing a bridge over a railroad track I watched an electric train speed by beneath me. The trees were green and lovely with a vivid green moss covering almost all around the trunk. After 2 miles or so of walking I returned to the hotel and had a cup of hot chocolate and jelly rolls. Gene Morris of the Bank of America had provided me with four Tip Packs; one German, one Swiss, one Spanish and one French to give us a little money as we arrived in each country. Cost was $41.00. I spoke to a man from Columbus, Ohio in the coffee shop who worked for Goodyear Rubber Company. He had been there 2 weeks visiting German factories regarding the use of new plastic products that is to be used for the entire front and rear ends of future automobiles. He remarked about the effect of the devaluated dollar in Germany. He said they had allowed about 100 marks a day to spend but after two weeks, starting with 2000 marks they had less than 100 left. I was back in our room at 6:30 AM waiting for DeVonne to get up. The next day we drove from Frankfurt to Heidelberg, the romantic city immortalized by Sigmund Romberg in "The Student Prince." We toured the castle, entering by crossing the moat by a fortified bridge, defended by a massive tower. It was most interesting and we spent perhaps 2 hours there. From the great terrace high above the town we had a splendid view of the Neckar River, the Old Bridge and the Church of the Holy Ghost. The cellar holds the Great Vat of Heidelberg that is an enormous wooden barrel with a capacity of 50,000 gallons. Constructed in the late 18th century, its purpose was to hold enough wine for the whole garrison through many months if the castle was under siege. After leaving the castle we strolled around the University of Heidelberg grounds but found graffiti on nearly every building which left us with a poor opinion of the campus. We made inquiries how to reach the Black Forest but decided against going there. Our next stop was Rothenburg, which is an old walled city. One has to drive through a narrow archway to get into the town. The buildings were very old and typically German. I was attracted to one of them as there appeared to be a circular staircase near the outside wall and the windows that followed up the stairs were cut on an angle to match the rise of the stairs. I have never seen anything like it before or since. From Rothenburg we traveled on into Nürnburg. I had insisted that we go there as the city intrigued me. When I took German at Stanford my teacher was a German lady (actually the grandmother of my girl friend Yvonne Beattie). She used to tell stories about Nürnberg and what a wonderful city it was. We found rooms at the Hotel Victoria and enjoyed a good night's sleep. The beds were made up with huge square pillows that we found quite comfortable. DeVonne and I would have liked to have brought some home but the size and bulk of them prohibited it. Our Room No. was 109 and cost 64 marks ($22.50). The next morning we visited the town square that contains the cathedral and clock tower which is world famous. Across the square is the Schone Brunnen that at one time was the main spire on top of the cathedral but it was damaged and since been placed across the court with a wire fence surrounding it to protect it from vandalism. We stopped by a Mormon Church in the city and picked up a Sunday program that showed they were having a District Conference in München on the 2nd & 3rd of June. From the square we walked to the Albrecht-Durer Platz and the Albert Durer house. This where the artist, painter, inventor, etc., did much of his work and the house has been maintained to look as it did when he lived there. Many of his works were on exhibit. Dura and I had our picture taken in front of the house, showing the nameplate on the front wall of the house. When I had the picture developed and printed they kept cutting off the top of the picture, although the negative showed the name. After three tries and my explanation of what I wanted I finally got it to show properly. The Durer house is in the old walled section of town and all the buildings are very quaint and picturesque. Leaving Nürnburg we drove south to München and walked through the grounds of the 1972 Olympic Village. From the tower we got a fine 360 degree view of the surroundings sports centers, including the main track & field arena, the swimming stadium, and others. Also we were able to look directly down on the BMW auto plant that was located just across the autoban. We had lunch on the grounds. Bob was in a hurry to get us to Spain as soon as he could. He had a notion that if we didn't get over the French border into Spain early in May we would have traffic problems due to the exodus of tourists from France, and elsewhere, going to Spain for their vacations. As a result we did not get into downtown München where they have a renown Glockenspiegel or clock tower. Instead we hurried on to reach Zurich for our next evening stop. We had to cross into Austria for a short drive where we had to show our passports and were cleared through Austria into Switzerland. We drove along the Bodensee (lake) for a short while and then into the town of St. Gallen and finally to Zurich, Switzerland. One thing I didn't realize, and Bob probably kept it from me purposely, was that we were within about 40 miles at one time of the famous Neuschwanstein Castle, built by the mad king, Ludwig, the one that the castle at Disneyland is patterned after. Had I known how close we were I would have insisted on visiting it. I probably will never get another chance. At Zurich, we stayed in Room 631 at the Continental Hotel for 120 Swiss Francs ($36.48). Bob and Dura phoned their friend, Heidi Widmer, an AFS Student who spent a year at South Pasadena High School in 1965-66, who came and visited with us while we ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. The next morning we had breakfast at a little cafe near the lake, window shopped about an hour, exchanged money to Francs at the bank and drove to Luzern, Switzerland. "Lucerne is a fairytale town nestled in the Swiss Alps, and a shopper's paradise. Watches and clocks are everywhere, of course, but also woodcarvings, music boxes, beautiful embroideries, and cow bells. It is hard to describe the magic of the place and its effect on those who visit. A sparkling lake in front and a towering mountain behind the city help make its location a dream." We left the car parked and walked around the city, crossing over the famous wooden foot bridge that is over 600 years old. We bought a rolling pin with a cookie pattern engraved on it ($2.91) for DeVonne on the bridge and some candy to eat as we walked around town. From Lucerne we drove to Escholzmatt and had lunch at the Hotel Rössli. Lunch time was over but they gave us some sandwiches and milk. It started to rain as we bought fresh bread across the street from the restaurant and got back into the car. The little town nestles in a small picturesque valley, very typical of Switzerland. We saw many beautiful homes with flowers in pots adorning every window. The barns were built to match the houses and, at least from the outside, looked good enough to live in. We drove on into Berne, the Capitol of Switzerland, and after some searching found the Swiss Temple, arriving in the early evening. It was a cloudy day and threatening rain. DeVonne, Dura and I got out and went inside the visitors' center while Bob remained in the car. It was Monday and the Temple was closed so there was very little activity to see or do. Bob was still anxious to push on and had hoped to make Geneva that night, but it was 8:00 PM and dark so we couldn't even see the street signs. Also, the rest of us felt tired enough that we stopped in Lausanne and stayed at the Hotel Carlton, near Ouchy. Our Room was No. 217 at 95 Francs ($28.88). The Hotel had an advertisement for the Divonne Casino, otherwise called the "Premier Casino de France." The name was as close to "DeVonne" as we have ever seen. We ate dinner at D'angleterre Restaurant. Up the next morning and after a continental breakfast at the hotel we were on our way to Geneva. Two thousand years of history have left their mark on Geneva and her Old Town contains many fascinating vestiges of the past. Yet Geneva is essentially a modern, forward looking city. We stood at the Monument of the Reformation (Reformation Wall) with statues of Calvin, Farel, Beze and Knox. I found a statue of David standing with his foot on the severed head of Goliath and got a picture. We drove past the famous landmark of Geneva - the International Congress Center, and the fountain in Lake Geneva. We continued west into France where we were waved through by the border guard. Stopped in Annecy and bought yogurt, cookies, butter, etc. In the meat section of the grocery store we saw some strange cuts of meat. They had to be the same kinds of meat that we eat in the US, but they were cut in many different ways. I couldn't figure out the prices for the things I bought so I just held an open hand of coins out to the clerk and she took what she wanted and we both were satisfied. Later we stopped for lunch in the car off the highway. We drove through Valence and skirted the walled city of Avignon and arrived at Nimes, France about 5:30 PM and got a room at the Hotel du Cheval Blanc (White Horse Hotel) for 72 Francs ($16.02). The Hotel was right across the street from the Roman Arena. Though we were tired Bob insisted that we drive out to the Pont du Gard. The Gard is about 15 miles northeast of Nimes and quite spectacular to see. If Nimes enjoyed a copious supply of fresh water in its Roman heyday, it was due to an aqueduct that stretched 30 miles from Uzes. A remarkable engineering feat it was, tunneling through hills, siphoning over obstructions, and conquering valleys by means of stone bridges. The boldest, most imposing of these bridges is the Pont du Gard. Dating from 19 B.C., it is a prodigious accomplishment in unmortared stone, to be compared with the pyramids of Egypt. The massive six-ton stones have weathered to a golden-yellow throughout the centuries, and have inspired countless poets and painters, not to mention engineers. The Pont du Gard is in an isolated, reposeful spot, ideal for a picnic lunch. I walked across it on a lower level. Back at Nimes we parked the car in an underground garage near the hotel. Bob, Dura and I had dinner in the hotel. DeVonne went without. The French have a long established protocol for serving meals, which ought to be modernized. The meal wasn't too good. We had a hard time getting our order across to the waiter. After about three waiters we finally got one who could understand us enough to satisfy our tastes. "The smiling and aristocratic city of Nimes of over one hundred thousand souls have never forgotten the days of glory when it was a flourishing Roman metropolis. The citizens of Nimes still give their children Romanized first names such as Adrien, Antonin, and Flavien. The proud temples, arenas, and monuments left by the sons of Caesar have been rescued from the accumulated dust and debris of indifferent centuries and now stand serene and, some of them, unrivaled. The Maison Carree in Nimes is the best preserved of all Roman temples. The Jardin de la Fontaine is one of the loveliest gardens in France." The next morning (Wednesday, 30 May) we visited the Arena and explored it from top to bottom. "The vast oval arena in the heart of the city is a marvel of efficiency, even by today's most advanced standards. It can be cleared of its twenty thousand spectators in five minutes. The Romans took strolls in the lower corridors and had a snack and drink between combats, just as we do between halves at football games today. Bullfights in the attenuated French manner are the most exciting things that occur in the arena nowadays, in contrast to the tense gladiatorial battles of Roman times. They would pit a bloodthirsty lion, tiger, or panther against an armed gladiator, or two bloodthirsty gladiators against each other. The arena was also the scene of executions, when hapless Christians were turned over to the headsman or to ferocious beasts." We then visited the Cathedral in Nimes and took a few pictures inside which turned out surprisingly well. We drove south from Nimes to Montpellier. At Meze we got our first glimpse of the Mediterranean Sea but a better view at Narbonne. We continued on through Perpignan and crossed the border into Spain and stopped for lunch. Bob called Esther to have her alert Judy of our time of arrival. We turned off the Autopista to drive a portion of the Costa Brava, starting at San Feliu de Guixols. It is a beautiful coast line, similar to our Coast Highway from Carmel south, but more rugged. At Tossa de Mar we took pictures of the Roman Fort and got back on the Autopista at Pineda and drove on into Barcelona. Bob knew the way to Judy's apartment so we arrived with no problem. Judy's apartment was at Calle Greco 20, 3°, 3°. The five of us had dinner that evening at "The Barrel in the Corner" that was unique. We sat at a round table and the waiters, who were dressed like pirates, place a huge round metal dish on the table. It must have been three feet in diameter and was filled with crayfish, shrimp, squid, octopus, fish, a thin sliced (red) dried ham and it was all very good. In addition we had a salad, cold water in plastic bottles and ice cream. After we returned to Judy's apartment, Esther, nee Muñoz, and Ignacio Font came over and visited with us at 11:00 PM. In Judy's senior year in High School Esther Muñoz came over as an exchange student and lived with Bob's family in South Pasadena for the year with the two girls graduating together. The following year Judy went to Spain (not as an exchange student, but on her own) and lived with Esther and her family for a year. Bob and Dura had made several trips to Barcelona and had the apartment at Calle Greco before Judy took it over. The two families became very good friends. The next day we left Judy's around noon and took the freeway south. We went into Calafell and doubled back to Cunit where Bob and Dura had two apartments in the same building. Bob and I took a quick swim in the Mediterranean in the afternoon. The water was warm and the waves were very small. The vacant lot next to our apartment building was being prepared to build another apartment complex. The construction workers were pouring the footings for the building that was being done in a unique fashion. They had a large circular steel cylinder about five foot in diameter and nearly as high. They would place it on the ground and dig out the soil on the inside allowing the cylinder to drop into the hole as they dug it. After reaching the desired depth and removing the right amount of soil they began to pour concrete into the cylinder and raise the cylinder with a crane and cables as the concrete arose until the footing was complete. In one way it was similar to the way we pour concrete silos in our country. We build a circular form (both inside and outside) about four and a half feet high and with reinforcing steel placed between the two forms we pour concrete and jack up the forms as the concrete rises in the form. The main trick is not to bring up the form too soon, before the lower portion of the concrete has taken a proper set. Otherwise the concrete will bulge out below the form and the job is ruined. The first night in Cunit Dura fixed a flank steak for dinner that Bob had purchased at the Mar Bleu (Supermarket). Friday DeVonne and I went swimming. Bob came down to the beach later and Ignacio with Esther and her mother, Elena, arrived in the afternoon. They came to dinner that evening and Dura had meat, lentils, etc., including strawberries and whipped cream for our meal. Saturday I spent 3 hours on the beach from 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM and got a lot of sun. Both of Esther's parents (José & Elena) were there in the afternoon. Dinner was steak, peas & carrots and salad with pineapple glaze cake for dessert. Bob, Dura, Judy and I walked to the ice cream parlor for ice cream later in the evening. DeVonne and I sat out on the front porch in the late evening before going to bed. Sunday I got up about 10:00 AM. The power to the building was off until about 12:30 PM. The area was quiet Sunday. There was no work on the footings next door. DeVonne slept late and I wrote some postcards for Bob to mail in Barcelona. We stayed in the apartment most of the day. Esther & Ignacio took DeVonne and me to the Roc San Cayetano on the Costa Dorada in Tarragona in the evening to show us the many different styles of architecture of the little town. Some years later I saw a picture advertized for sale through a magazine that reminded me of Roc San Cayetano. It probably was a painting of it. We were just in the process of moving to Westlake Village and I didn't want it sent while we were in the process. When we got moved and I tried to order a print, it was too late and they had all been sold. Monday, Bob, Dura and Judy went back to Barcelona with José and Elena. DeVonne and I got up and went to the supermarket, Mar Bleu, for groceries. Had a good breakfast and then went to the beach from 1:00 to 4:00 PM. Just as we were leaving the beach, Bob arrived and went for a swim. In the evening we had ravioli on hamburger for dinner. Tuesday, DeVonne, Bob and I left the apartment about 11:00 AM and drove to Tarragona. It rained most of the day and we found it doesn't rain "mainly on the plains in Spain." It rains everywhere. We drove by the Roman Forum in Terragona but couldn't find a place to park. We went out to see the aqueduct and drove right up to it on an old road. It was raining hard and we got wet trying to walk the last short distance. Back to the car we drove to the cathedral but couldn't get in. We had lunch at the Las Palmeras Restaurant, "Balcon Del Mediterraneo." The restaurant overlooks the sea, being practically right on the water and is near an old Roman amphitheater. DeVonne said the outdoor eating area look exactly like the one in the film with Jack Lemmon. We headed back toward Cunit on the coast drive and stopped at the Roc San Cayetano again for a paper but were too early. We stopped at the "Ceramicas Mercade" on the Roda De Bara at the Roman Arch - "Arco de Bara." DeVonne bought a few things and we arrived back at Cunit around 4:30 PM. We had a dinner of pork chops and then drove to Sitges for ice cream and window shopping. Sitges is a resort area. Bob said there are more Americans in the town than any other town on the coast. Sitges, "the Golden Beach," because of its mild climate and beaches of fine sand where the sun always shines, is one of the most cosmopolitan holiday summer resorts in Europe, at the same time being an excellent place in the winter. There is local folk dancing throughout the year, vintage car rallies, a carnation show, the Feast of Corpus Christi, etc. Wednesday we were up early for a trip into Barcelona. We stopped at the airport for Bob to confirm his flight back to Tehran. I took a picture of the statue of Don Quixote (a modern art type) at the entrance to the airport. Arrived at Esther and Ignacio's apartment around 10:10 AM. We drove in their car, dropping Bob off to go to his dentist and Elena at Ignacio's Mother's (Maria). Both Esther and Ignacio's and his Mother's apartments are very nice. Esther's is modern, on the 7th Floor with a balcony overlooking a football field. High enough above the wall and seating for them to have an optimum end view of the games. Ignacio's Mother's apartment is spacious and in more the traditional Spanish style. We first drove to the Church of the Holy Family and parked and strolled through the grounds and portions completed. They have been working on it for about 2000 years and will be another 100 or so before it is completed. An immense project which once started, I suppose, they can't allow it to go uncompleted. To me it looks like they bit off more than they can chew. Each year they have a big drive to get more money by donations to complete it. From there we drove through a portion of the city, down to the harbor, past the statue of Christopher Columbus, and then up to Montjuich, stopping to stroll through the cactus gardens on the side of the hill facing the sea. Nearly every variety of cactus is available in the gardens, plus many other succulent plants. We drove through the main gate of the castle atop Montjuich and over the drawbridge. We had lunch at the restaurant at the top. We ate outside where we had a good view looking back over the city. Took pictures of the old cannons placed atop the wall of the castle. Ignacio said it was used again during World War II for fortification. On the way down we took pictures of Sardana's monument: "Ring of Dancers." We drove back into town and strolled down the Ramblau de la Fleurs (Flowers). The Ramblas covers about a mile and a quarter from the Plaza Catalunya to the Plaza de la Paz at the Mediterranean. It is a wide boulevard flanked by trees. There are bird and flower vendors, bookstores, antique shops, and quaint newspaper kiosks. There are ancient buildings along side of Burger Kings, a madhouse of a gigantic food market, and wonderful atmospheric cafes. The Gran Teatro de Liceu, Barcelona's opera house, is also on the Ramblas. We walked to the Cathedral of Barcelona but it was closed so we couldn't enter. We went down narrow streets with high buildings on each side and stone images of gargoyles, etc., overhanging the street. Visited the Plaza del Rey and I stood on the steps of the Palace where Queen Isabella received Columbus on his return from his voyage to American in 1492. We saw the old Roman wall located in the old section of the city. Then we turned to shopping in the streets of Barcelona. Ignacio finally left us and went back to his office about 4:00 PM, DeVonne bought a pair of shoes ($4.05) and we finally found a ceramic figurine to her liking. It was by Lladro and was a figure of Rebecca at the Well carrying a water jug. Done in a matte finish, rather than the high glaze that seems so popular now. I bought it on BankAmericard to see that it would work all the way over in Spain. There was no problem. We paid 1430 Pesetas that amounted to only $24.66. Today the piece is probably worth over $100.00. Esther bought some little pastries in a little shop and then about 6:15 PM we caught Bus #16 and rode from the main plaza of town out to her apartment, getting off within a half block of her front door. Judy showed up shortly after that and finally Bob and Dura. Ignacio played some excellent music on his stereo and showed DeVonne and I some of his books, including his first book of photos of himself from the time of his christening that were very interesting. We had dinner, prepared earlier in the day by Esther, about 8:00 PM. Then we watched home movies of Ignacio and Esther's honeymoon trip to the Virgin Islands and another trip they took with friends to the Costa Brava. We said goodbye about 10:30 PM, took Judy back to her apartment and the four of us drove back to Cunit, arriving around 12:00 midnight. Thursday, slept late and went out on the beach about 11:00 AM. Spent most of the time relaxing and picking up pebbles on the shore with the thought to take them home and encase them in plastic or paper as paper weights. I came in about 5:00 PM and DeVonne shortly after that. We had dinner at eight and walked down to the ice cream parlor about 9:30 PM. After a tiring day in Barcelona the day before this was a good day of rest. I got lots of sun, and some sunburn on my lower back from bending over to pick up pebbles. Friday, up at 8:00 AM, breakfasted and left about 9:00 AM for Sitges and shopping. Had a good day. DeVonne got many things as presents for our relatives, and I got two belts for myself ($12.50) and two phonograph records ($10.86). We had lunch at a little Swiss restaurant in town about 2:00 PM. Then, back to the apartment at Cunit and Bob and I had a swim while DeVonne and Dura relaxed. Had a late dinner and we all walked down for some ice cream. Saturday, 9th June, we spent the day on the beach from 11:00 AM until 5:00 PM for me. Ignacio, Bob and I dug clams for about an hour. We had a late dinner as usual. Sunday, DeVonne and I walked on the beach from 12:00 to 1:00 PM, after a late breakfast. Spent our time gathering sea shells. There were many people on the beach for a Sunday. I finished reading "The Black Moth" that I had started Saturday. Had lunch (dinner) about 4:00 PM and then we all took a nap. AT 8:00 PM we went to the Muñoz' for cake and goodies. José, Elena, Esther, Ignacio, Dura, Bob, Judy and DeVonne & I. We took pictures of Elena and had a friendly visit. The Muñoz family are most gracious hosts. Returned to our apartment about 10:30 and to bed. Monday, 11th, Bob and I bought our groceries about 10:00 AM. Went to the beach at 11:00 AM and at 1:00 PM went out in Muñoz' rowboat for an hour or so with Ignacio and José. The water is colder and more refreshing further offshore. Bob, Dura and I took Judy to the station at 6:00 PM to catch the 6:30 train. The train was late, coming in at 8:00 PM and there was barely standing room only for Judy to get on with her luggage for her hour's ride to Barcelona, standing up all the way. Back at the apartment, Elena and Ignacio's mother, Maria, came to visit with DeVonne in our absence. DeVonne managed a short visit in spite of the language barrier. We had a light dinner about 9:00 PM. Dura and Bob went to the exchange to phone Judy to make sure she got home okay. The exchange closed at 10:00 PM and Judy wasn't home yet. To bed for us at 11:30 PM. Tuesday we got up early but the sun was not out. DeVonne had planned to spend the day on the beach but we decided to drive to Poblet to see the monastery. We left about 11:00 AM and by then DeVonne was dressed for the trip, and the sun was out. It took about an hour and a half to drive to the monastery, or Abbey, as they called it. Bob bought tickets at 20 pesetas each and we got in around 12:30 PM before they locked up for the siesta period. "Near the source of the River Francoli, in a pleasant plain, roughly halfway between Tarragona and Lerida, the noble edifice of the monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet rises up. Although its beginnings are clouded by legendary tales, we know for a fact that it was founded, thanks to a generous gift of land from Count Ramon Berenguer IV of Barcelona to the Cistercian monks from the French Abbey at Fontfroide. The Moors had just been driven back from the hills at Prades and Ciurana, when, in 1151, a group of 12 monks in white habits crossed the Pyrenees led by Abbot Gerard. The small colony settled in the whereabouts of what was to be later the important abbey, starting a tradition of prayer, work and study, which was to continue uninterrupted for nearly seven hundred years, until the Community was ejected from their beloved monastery in 1835. Monastic life in Poblet, which in the beginning was exuberant, was always strict and austere, even when in the Middle Ages, monastic life tended to be more easy-going. When the community was forced to leave Poblet, the monastery was unmercilessly subjected to plunder and complete desecration. Robbery and fire destroyed in a very short time the work of many generations of monks. It was many years before the restoration of the ruined buildings began to take place. A Trust fund was established in 1930 to commence the reconstruction of the artistic beauties of Poblet. Religious life flowed again for the first time in 1940, started by four monks, and the Voice of Prayer has been heard perpetually ever since, thus restoring the broken chain, so tragically severed in 1835." After our visit I bought DeVonne a charm medal ($12.07) identifying with Poblet. We returned "home" and got out on the beach by 4:00 PM. DeVonne and I slept on the beach while Dura strolled along the shore. Later she and Bob drove to Vendrell to look at furniture. We had flank steak for dinner and in the evening Bob, Dura and I went for ice cream down the street. Got to bed about midnight. Wednesday up at 8:30 AM, breakfasted and Bob and I went to the bank to exchange money and buy a few groceries. Dura couldn't find her travellers checks and we figured she had left them at Judy's in Barcelona. Bob caught the next train to Barcelona at 10:30 AM. I took the car to Cubellas to have the oil changed. Cost 200 Pesetas ($3.52) with some oil left over in the can that I put in the trunk. DeVonne and I went out on the beach at 1:00 PM as the sun broke through after a bit of rain earlier. We took a few pictures before it clouded up again. We spent an hour or so collecting shells along the beach. We started to eat lunch about 2:00 PM but it started to rain so we came back to the apartment for lunch. We picked up Bob at the station at 3:42 with the train about on time. Bob gave Dura the "OK" sign that he had found the traveler's checks. We had a late dinner about 9:00 PM. I read for a while and went to sleep at 11:00 PM. Thursday DeVonne and I spent six hours on the beach in the sun. It was a great day. I gathered shells before lunch and then again in the afternoon. Bob and Dura came out. Dura went swimming for the first time since we had arrived. Bob and I gathered clams and we each had a dish of them fried in butter that was very good. I gathered about 150 of them. I washed the car about 5:00 PM with a sponge and bucket. No hose available. Bob decided to go to Barcelona and spend the evening with Judy as he said he didn't get a chance to talk to her with Dura around. We ate dinner about 7:00 PM and all took Bob to the train for a 7:30 boarding. The train was about an hour late and we all waited at the station until Bob finally got away. DeVonne, Dura and I did a bit of shopping at the Mar Bleu and came home to pack and be ready to leave in the AM for Barcelona. I took all our sheets and pillowcases to the Mar Bleu Laundromat at 10:00 AM but they said they wouldn't have them ready until 5:00 PM. I picked them up at 6:00 PM. I met a couple at the Laundromat from New Jersey who had purchased a Volkswagen and were camping and seeing Europe on a tight budget in a 90 day period. I finished packing and was ready for bed at 11:00 PM. Friday, 15th, up at 6:30 AM and ready to start back toward Frankfurt. Breakfasted and left Cunit at 7:50 AM. We dropped Dura off at the El Greco apartment about 9:30 AM. Said our goodbyes as Bob and Dura were flying back to Tehran from Barcelona. We finally found our way out of town and on the Autopista headed for Granollers, Vich and Puiggerda, Spain. We drove straight through the Pyrennes mountain range without hardly a straight stretch of road all the way to Foix, France. The Pyrennes were beautiful and we climbed high above the timberline and even above snow patches in remote areas. The peak of the drive seemed to be at Tosas (1800 meters). We bypassed Puiggerda and drove west to Seo de Urgel and then turned right into Andorra. The Spanish police waved us right by at the border crossing but the Andorra police wanted to see that both of us had our passports. Andorra is a Republic occupying 191 square miles in the eastern Pyrennes between France and Spain. We naturally hit Andorra La Vella, the Capitol, at the siesta hour, about 2:30 PM. We parked the car and shopped the windows and a few stores that were open. Finally at nearly 4:00 PM we found a charm for DeVonne for her future bracelet. It was of French origin and cost $34.83. We left town and finally reached the French border where gendarmes waved us through noting our passports. French roads were an immediate improvement over the Spanish, although the Spanish weren't bad. We drove down the French side of the Pyrennes that seemed to have as much beauty at the Spanish side. At 6:20 PM we reached Foix, France and decided it was far enough for the day. We found the Hostellerie de la Barbacane as noted in the Auto Club Travel Guide, only by luck. We had a quaint room with all the modern conveniences, plus refrigerator, water, fizwater, etc., and very comfortable. Our bedroom luxuriated in painted silk bedsteads, and the bathroom was lined with raspberry tile and had a baby blue bidet and tub. It was a colorful evening. Our window looked out directly at the Castle fortress of the Counts of Foix. So close we could almost hit it with a rock. DeVonne got half undressed and threw back the bed covers and laid down for what I considered a short nap before dinner. I made a few notes of our day's journey, then took off my shoes and pants and lay down to rest a few minutes myself. Two or three times I woke up thinking I should get the rest of my clothes off but I didn't have the energy to do anything about it. In short, we slept through until 6:00 AM. That is what a drive through the Pyrennes will do for you. Saturday we were up by 8:00 AM and had breakfast brought to our room. Hot chocolate, rolls, jams, honey, butter, ala continental and very good. I went out and walked over to the castle to check visiting hours and found it open at 8:30 AM. I bought DeVonne some yogurt at a nearby market and returned to the room. We took the car and drove up to the castle. We walked up a series of cobblestoned switchback wide pathways to the main entrance where we paid our one and one half Francs each. On up some more switchbacks to the main floor of the castle. We climbed the stairway of the square tower to the top and took a picture. Then we came down as the guide was ready to start the tour. He opened the doors to several rooms, including a great hall in the base of the square tower in which were stuffed falcons, eagles, ancient tools, weapons, spinning wheels, bear traps, a moose head, a mastodon skeleton, etc. Off one end of the room was a smaller room equipped as a living room for a family with father & mother and 2 small children (manikins), a large fireplace, beds, etc. A very comfortable looking room in those surroundings. We then went to the round tower where the guide showed us 2 floors of rooms with ancient artifacts. Coins dating back to the time of Christ (Caligula), armour, coat of mail weighing 9 kilos, breastplate weighing 5 kilos, weapons, jewelry, a Roman coffin, flint stone tools, etc. Prisoners who had been kept in some rooms had carved their names on the walls as well as some regular residents, with dates going back to early 1400 A.D. A very interesting collection and the whole castle is hardly commercialized - no brochures available (some in town in French). We walked on up the spiral staircases to the top of the round tower and saw the chimney stacks from the fireplaces. The parapet walls at the top are built out over the outside wall on the towers, resting on projections from the main walls with open spacing between the projections. Probably to allow the occupants to drop harmful things, such as boiling oil, on their enemies. Our guide was very good, telling his story in French, but for DeVonne and me he would give us a little English as we were apparently the only English speaking people on the tour. He said that he spoke good Spanish too, but not much English. He was very kind to us and I gave him a few Francs when we left. We went back to the hotel and checked out about 11:00 AM and were on the road again heading north for Toulouse and Montauban. The French countryside is very beautiful, and villages and single dwellings are charming. Everything is very clean and orderly. Toulouse was a big town and we bypassed the most of it. Passed on through Montauban, an ancient town on the banks of the Tarn River. It glowed with a dusty pink, for most of its buildings are built of old brick. We finally arrived at Cahors, crossing the Lot River and stopped in town. Cahors is a fascinating place, built in a horseshoe bend made by the river Lot, its location results in three bridges, one of which is the superb Pont Valentre, which we drove over entering the town. This fortified bridge dates from the 14th century and bristles with three husky and forbidding towers in the best fairy-tale tradition. A flea market was going on in the heart of town. We looked but didn't buy anything. It was about 3:00 PM and all the sidewalk shops seemed to be serving only beer, wine and hard liquor. We literally stumbled on to "La Maison du Querey" and found it clean and inviting on the inside. The waiter could speak a little English and I found the Plat du Jour to be veal with a sauce of tomatoes, etc., and potatoes & carrots. DeVonne took her usual broiled chicken. The food was delicious and in ample servings. I had ice cream for dessert and DeVonne passed. The whole meal was 16 Francs ($3.56). We drove on through Brive and arrived at Limoges at 6:15 PM. The stores were still open so we parked and scurried around looking for something we liked in their world famous porcelain. The stores closed at 7:00 PM and we still hadn't found anything we wanted. The next day was Sunday and the stores would be closed. We found a fancy doorhandle and additional hardware we liked in a hardware store but the whole thing totaled too much money. We decided we would try again when we returned to Frankfurt. We drove north about 7 kilometers from town and found the "Hotel Residence," recommended by the Auto Club and found a good room at 76 Francs ($16.00) I had difficulty understanding the French lady at the front desk and the next morning, after our breakfast or "petit dejeuner," when I went to pay the bill I found that the room only cost us $8.00. It was a very nice room and as modern as any motel in the US. This was the best bargain of the entire trip. Sunday, 17th, we stopped for gas and after I had filled the tank I found that I didn't have enough French money. I could pay for most of it and the woman at the station took what I had with a smile and waved me goodby. I didn't think until after we were down the road a bit that I could have given her some American money, which I think she would have gladly accepted. We drove north through Chateauroux and Orleans, heading for Paris. At Orleans we crossed the Loire River. Orleans is the Capitol of Loiret and occupies a glorious page in history. The deliverance of the fortified city by the inspired and persistent Jeanne d'Arc will always remain one of the great military epics. As we approached Paris we decided to double back and drive east to Fontainebleau and see the palace. We arrived in town just in time to park, get out on the street, and observe a parade go by. We took several pictures of the parade, which included a motorcycle brigade of policemen, a pack of hound dogs, horse and carriages, an elephant, and various people dressed in medieval costumes. There was a crowd lining the streets and I took my wallet out of my hip pocket and stuffed it into the front of my pants to insure its safety. I couldn't afford a pickpocket. We never did figure out exactly what the parade was all about, but it was colorful and interesting. The parade had blocked many streets and we had some difficulty finding the palace until one fine frenchman finally gave us good directions. The palace is built on a meandering plan that emphasizes the contrasts of its many periods. It is so immense that visitors see only a fraction of it during the tour of the interior. A tour of the royal apartments, the gardens, and the graceful forest, probably the most beautiful in France, is an experience one never forgets. We entered the grounds from the backside and weren't too impressed until we got to the front and entered through the main portion of the palace. I was without a sou of french money but an American near the ticket window exchanged my dollars for francs and we got in at 1.5 francs each for the palace tour. The palace decor is unbelievable until seen. We saw so many sculptures, art work, paintings, etc. Napoleon's throne room, his abdication room, the Queen's bedroom and waiting room, etc. We stood in the palace chapel on Sunday which was the best we could do for Church. We were not allowed to use flash with our cameras and many pieces of art would not photograph well in the subdued light. One piece of art work that I wanted to get and could not for the above reason was a sculptured nude female figure with women's breasts covering her entire body, including her arms and legs. I thought afterward I should have chanced a flash shot, even if I would have received a reprimand. We drove into Paris and worked our way downtown sans map until we finally found the Louvre and Notre Dame. Then we drove up the Champs-Elysees and around the Arch of Triumph, crossed the Seine River several times. It was dark when we finished looking, but without finding, a hotel. The man who traded money with me at Fontainebleau had told us we could find a "Novotel" that could be seen from the freeway. We finally stopped at a gas station and got directions to the freeway and Reims. The freeway encircles the city of Paris and I think we drove completely around it without finding the Novotel. We drove east to the old town of Meaux and finally found a hotel at 10:30 PM for 50 francs($11.15). It was quite ancient, but clean. DeVonne and I each had the equivalent of bunk beds to sleep in, and she was quite displeased with the hotel, and also my inability to find lodging in Paris. Monday, 18th, we had breakfast at the hotel and had to wait for the headwaiter to arrive before I could get my traveler's checks cashed. I cashed two twenties at 4.4 francs/dollar. We drove back into Paris, arriving about 10:00 AM. We bought gas and a map at a filling station and found our way downtown to the Louvre again. We parked in an underground garage nearby and walked to the Louvre to find the workers had gone on strike as of that morning. They were open the day before and Tuesday (the next day) their usual closed day. Just our luck, along with several hundred other people who had hoped to see it that day. They came by the bus loads, cars, etc. We strolled around the inner court for a short time. We took pictures of L'Arc of Triomphe du Carrousel built in celebration of Napoleon's victories in the campaigns of 1805. Also got a picture of the statue of Lafayette within the grounds, which was given to the people of France by American school children. I took two pictures of a most ornate downspout on an outer wall of the Louvre to show some of my plumber friends (a 90 Deg Ell fitting in the shape of a fish). We reparked the car on the Rue de Rivoli on the Right Bank and shopped for an hour. DeVonne finally found a charm ($43.90) to her liking, a replica of the stained glass window of Notre Dame. She also found a gold-coin purse and a silk scarf with French decorations. Notre Dame is on an island in the Seine River and we passed by it several times but did not get on the island. Back to the car we again drove up the Champs-Elysees and around L'Arc du Triomphe, where you take your life in your hands in the traffic. (We made it without a scratch three times.) Driving in Paris is not half as bad as most everyone says. With a good map you can get around easily. Barcelona is ten times worse, mainly because you can't find street names half the time. We parked off the Champs-Elysees and I left DeVonne in the car while I walked to the French exchange for more Francs. The French exchange was very slow and meticulous, but I finally got through the line and back to DeVonne. We drove to the Eiffel tower via the Franklin D. Roosevelt Avenue. Parked in the shadow of the tower and took the ride to the second level. We got out for a view and took pictures. We could see the Palais de Chaillot and the Sacre-Coeur, among several other points of interest. At the Tour Eiffel Restaurant we each had a cup of hot chocolate at three francs each. The cream on top was sour and it was the worst chocolate we had on the entire trip, and the most expensive. Chocolate in Germany was always exceptionally good. Down from the tower we checked the map for the nearest way to the freeway and drove about one third of the way around Paris to get back to the route out to Reims. At this point we found the Novotel, next to the freeway and we got a room for the night. The Novotel was new and our room was very nice, at 110 francs per night ($24.50). Dinner in the hotel was lousy. The waitress much too slow and we waited an hour to be served. We were back in our room by 8:00 PM. I took a bath and watched Television until midnight while DeVonne washed her hair. Tuesday, up at 6:30 AM. We left the hotel about 8:00 AM, deciding the restaurant was too full and their service bad. There were a bus load or two of tourists from South Carolina that flooded the place. The freeway was jammed so we took a short cut to Meaux and got lost. We finally made our way back and drove to Chateau Thierry and visited the Monument Shrine for the US war dead of World War One. As a young boy I had read several books about World War One and this area always seemed to be in the stories. We followed the Marne River for a while and then turned off for Reims. We toured the Cathedral and took some pictures. We got a picture of the statue of Peter with his arm in a sling. The stained glass windows are beautiful. Outside we took a picture of a statue of Joan D' Arc that was on the cathedral grounds. We drove on to Verdun, passing a turnoff with a sign posted for the town of Armentieres. This reminded me of the old song: "The Madamoiselle from Armentieres, Parlez Vous" that was a popular doughboy song of the first World War. We saw the French cemetery for their war dead and a Catholic cemetery but we missed the US one. We stopped for gas and noted a supermarket next door so we stocked upon food for supper, and breakfast and lunch the next day in our car. We stopped at a little restaurant in Beaumont and had spaghetti and croquettes that was very good. We drove on into the city of Luxembourg, which is the Capitol of Luxembourg, and after driving around the town for a bit we found a hotel across the street from the railroad station. France and Luxembourg certainly do not advertize their hotels very well. The room was 825 Belgium Francs or about $22.00, located on the 4th floor with a balcony. The hotel was an old building but not bad. Most all the buildings in Luxembourg are very old. We window shopped for about an hour before going back to our room for supper. We slept well in spite of the noise of the cars on the street below. Wednesday, up at 7:00 AM and had our breakfast in our room (milk). Then we went shopping and found a lace handkerchief, cherub figurine and a charm for DeVonne. The figurine was $26.78 and the charm was $14.75. The jewelry shop would not take American Express or Bank of America Travellers Checks because, as they put it, money prices change so rapidly. We had to go to the bank to cash some travellers checks. I changed my French Francs for Belgium Francs and then we drove around town for a while and took a few pictures. It was cloudy and overcast all day so I didn't expect to get very good pictures. Heading for Germany we got lost a couple of times but finally ended on the right road. About 5 miles before reaching the German border we ran into a speed trap set up by the Luxembourg Police. Normal speed was 110 Kilos but they had some gravel on the road and had put the speed down to 40 Kilos, although I didn't see the sign. I was most observant of traffic signs throughout our trip. There was no traffic on the road except us but the police had a truck off at the roadside and were standing in the road as we came around a bend. They also had a truck for stopping vehicles coming the other way but none were in sight. They flagged me down and later a sports car and a motorcycle coming the other way while I was stopped. There were two policemen, one an older man with typical Prussian arrogance. The younger man spoke some English, and after yelling to the other man who had returned to the truck that we were Americans, he explained that I was going too fast for the posted sign about 50 meters down the road. He finally said I must pay 300 Belgium Francs and asked if I had any Belgium money. I pulled out a 500 BF note and he took it and said "500" to the other man. They agreed apparently, for when he took my Passport and Driver's License to write up the ticket, he went back to the truck and wrote up a 500 Franc ticket. When I called them on it saying he had said 300 Francs and I expected 200 in change, the younger man said for my speed it was 500. I know that if I had given him only a 300 note in the first place it would have been enough. The young fellow on the motorcycle came over and asked me what it was all about and I said I was just passing through and that it was a darn speed trap they had set up. The 500 Belgium Francs only amounted to about $15.00 but it was the principle of the thing that irked me. We passed a cemetery before leaving Luxembourg and we stopped to look and strolled around for a while. It proved to be very interesting and unique compared to our cemeteries in the United States. Almost every grave had a photograph of the deceased on the headstone. We crossed the border near Bitburg, Germany and had to show our Passports and the car insurance. We took a picture of a Gendarme at the Luxembourg border but he would not look our way. We went north toward Cologne to drive down along side of the Rhine River. A detour fouled us up for a while as we tried to figure out our way around some road construction. We finally made it and got nearly into Cologne before swinging south to Bonn and Koblenz. We didn't see the Rhine until we were south of Bonn. Then we saw only four castles between Bonn and Koblenz. The castles on the Rhine aren't all they're cracked up to be, at least as viewed from the outside and across the river. The day was very cloudy with smoke and haze so visibility was poor. We decided at Koblenz to catch the Autoban straight into Frankfurt. We crossed the Rhine and made it to the airport before running out of gas. Verdun was the last place we had filled the tank. At the airport I changed all my money into Deutsche Marks, and we drove to the Steigenberger Hotel, stopping for 5 DM of gas on the way. Our reservation was okay and we had the same room again as we had at the start of our trip. We rested until around 7:00 PM and then went down to the hotel restaurant and had a good meal. I brought in everything from the car so we could repack it all for our flight back to the USA. Thursday, 21 June 1973, our Flight was not due to leave Frankfurt until 7:30 PM and we had planned a day of shopping. We had seen a few interesting things in Germany on our trip but decided not to carry them for the whole trip but try to find them in Frankfurt. Unbeknown to us, we found that it was a holiday in Germany and all the stores were closed. We left the hotel, with the car fully packed with all our luggage for our flight home, and for returning the car to the Euro-Car man at the airport. We spent the day driving around the town of Frankfurt, resting in quiet spots and, just killing time until we could board our plane. The flight from Frankfurt to Bangor was uneventful. At Bangor we had to clear Customs. This took a couple of hours or so and it was in the middle of the night so I slept as much as I could waiting our turn. We had to declare what we had purchased, in addition to the customs' inspectors looking through our luggage. We had purchased about $256.00 worth of goods that we brought home with us and our customs charge was only $2.10. The customs official looking through my bag spotted a small Spanish Dictionary and picked it up. When he saw what it was, he asked me how good was my Spanish. I think when he spotted the book the first thing he thought of was pornographic material. There was much of it at the airport in Frankfurt. We arrived safely at Los Angeles International Airport and Dicky and Judie were there to pick us up. Our luggage had taken quite a beating in our travels but nothing inside was damaged. We found everything in good shape at home. Bruno and Toby were glad to see us. Si Simons who lived across the street had cared for them and watered the lawns. I think he was also glad to see us return after four weeks. Four weeks was a long time to be away from home and I was ready to return, though there were many places and things we had missed seeing. The trip was very gratifying to me. It would have been nice to have been able to speak the languages in the various countries we visited but it didn't seem really much of a barrier. I enjoyed having some time with Bob and Dura. Especially with Bob as we had never spent much time together in all our lives, once we had left high school and our parents' home.